Hello everyone! This post is a special DIY article just for you! I’m going to show you how to make a circle skirt dungarees like the one I’m wearing here. Don’t worry it is not a hard make, just follow the instructions!
To make the circle skirt :
– For the waist, you’re going to have to determine the radius of your skirt. To do that, measure your waist (for me 66) and add 3cm of seam allowance (for the invisible zip). Then, the calcul is this one : (waist measurement+ seam allowance /3.14)/2
so for me it is : (69/3.14)/2 = 11. The radius of my skirt is 11cm.
– Then, you have to decide on the length of your skirt, for me it is about 52 cm and add 2cm seam allowance for the hem, so 54cm in total. Then it is simple, you have to calculate like this : radius + length so 11+ 54 = 65 cm.
Now, trace your pattern on a paper. You start from the top right corner and trace the radius. Then you start again from the top right corner and trace the length. Make a lot of marks all around so it is easier for you to trace the circle! As you can see under on the picture , the left side of the pattern will have to be place on a folded fabric.
Once you have your pattern, trace it on your fabric. And then, you can cut! You will have to do this twice to have a front and a back skirt which will be similar. Cut the front pattern on a folded fabric, but don’t cut it on fold for the back one as we will need to sew the invisible zip after. In the end you should have 3 pieces for your skirt (1 front and 2 back).
Now you have to sew the sides of the skirt together. You could decide to add a waistband on your garnement (I didn’t here) and it is easy to make : take your waist measurement + seam allowance from before (69 for me) and decide on the width of your waistband (usually 5cm +0.5 cm seam allowance X 2). Then, draw a rectangle with (for me) 69 cm length and 11 cm width. Cut on your fabric, fold it in too and follow the instructions like on this DIY.
As I just said, on this dungarees I haven’t added any waistband but I have sewed an inside bias for a nice finitions. Sew it on the outside of your fabric first and then turn it in the inside and stitch it. You can see the inside result on the picture below. Once you’ve sewed your bias, you can sew your invisible zip at the back of your skirt.
To finish the skirt with a nice hem I advise you to use this technique : sew a line about 0.5cm from the bottom of the skirt before you try to fold it. It will be way easier to have the same hem all around after!
For the front piece, you’ll need to measure :
– the length of the front piece, so from the top of your breast (neckline) to the waist
– the top width, which is the distance between your breast (be careful not to take the side of your bras as a mark or your front piece will be too large)
– the bottom width, take as a measurement the distance between the two sides of your skirt so it will be exactly the same.
As for the circle skirt, use inside biais to have a nice finition of your front piece.
Then, you have to sew your front piece and your skirt together : again the sides of your front piece should correspond to the sides of your skirt. Stitch a line about 3mm from the top of your skirt to have a nice stitching and give the impression of a waist. Look at the pictures below to have an idea of the inside and of the outside result.
For the suspenders, you can feel free to choose the length that you want but you should try it before you sew them on the skirt. Use pins to see what would be the best. You have the choice as well to decide on the width of your suspenders. Mine are 3cm large so that means that my rectangles were 7 cm large when I cut them ( 3 x 2 + 1cm seam allowance). I cut 7cm large, folded them in two and sew them together at 0.5cm seam allowance and turned them on the right side. Once this is done, iron them and… tada!
Once you are sure that the length is the one you want, you can sew them to the skirt. If you want to cross them in your back like I did, you’ll have to make them a bit longer and sew them about 5cm from the middle of your back on each side (again that could change depending on your back).
Last step! I used snaps to close my dungarees but you could use proper suspenders buckles if you wanted. If you need to know how to use the snaps, have a look here.
And here you are! You have now a new garnement in your wardrobe, a perfect vintage style dungarees! I hope everything is clear and feel free to ask me any more questions! Have a nice week-end!
Fabric : Robert Kaufman, chambray available here